Zanzibar

Unlike Dar, Zanzibar is a major tourist destination, so there is no way we will escape detection as such. The good news is that means we don’t feel bad about pulling out the camera! A little photo journal of the trip will share some of the highlights. Not pictured:

The Museum of Culture and History in the House of Wonders | The same guide book author has frequently touted museums as “excellent” that are little more than science fair exhibits in molding old buildings. Thus we’re not expecting much when we stroll through the enormous traditional doors into the House of Wonders (so named because it was the first place on the island to have electric lights). The museum is actually great, with extensive information about the Swahili culture, the island’s days as a trading empire, how to build a traditional dhow without using any nails, and the forward thinking Princess Salme (whose autobiography I’m looking forward to tracking down).

Cats | Unlike the turtles, the many cats of Zanzibar are remarkably un-photogenic. We see almost no dogs in all of Stone Town, but there are endless cats – the most well fed street cats either of us have ever seen! Not surprising given the preponderance of fisherman on the island, we suppose, but it definitely makes us miss Cat Watson.

Belgians | We’re accompanied on our day long spice tour by three Belgians and a couple of New Yorkers. As we wait for the home-cooked lunch to be ready mid-day, we engage in an incredibly interesting conversation about the political situations in Zanzibar and Belgium. Our well informed guide helps us understand Zanzibar’s complicated situation as a part of Tanzania (since 1964), yet with its own additional president and parliament. The Belgians scoff at this and launch into an explanation of the endless complications in their own country (which hasn't had a government in over a year).

East Coast Beaches | We are warned not to bring valuables down to the beach, so unfortunately there are no shots of the pretty much endless white sand beach stretching along the east side of the island. A wide coral shelf makes swimming impossible at all but the highest tide, but we take a loooong walk one afternoon during which time we encounter only a handful of other people – a great excursion with a stiff breeze to keep us company and cut the heat.

Rain | Wednesday and Thursday demonstrate the reasons why the coast is so deserted for the rainy season. It’s great timing for us, since we’ve seen most of what we want to see and are glad for the accompanying cool as we make our way back to Dar, do some souvenir shopping and track down a few last delicious meals. Our little point and shoot camera is unfortunately unable to capture the dramatic downpours.

By the end of the trip, homebodies that we are, we’re well fed, well rested and our tans are nicely refreshed, but we’re happy to get back to our own space in Lilongwe.